分子组装技术在化妆品天然功效原料改性方面的应用研究进展(英文)
Advances in Molecular Assembly Technology for Modifying Natural Cosmetic Ingredients
投稿时间:2025-03-19  修订日期:2025-04-13
DOI:
中文关键词:  分子组装  化妆品功效原料  超分子组装  脂质体  纳米乳液
英文关键词:Molecular assembly  Functional ingredients for cosmetics  Supramolecular assembly  Liposome  Nano-emulsion
基金项目:
作者单位邮编
王漪 北京工商大学轻工科学与工程学院 100048
李丽 北京工商大学轻工科学与工程学院 
邵浩凡 北京工商大学轻工科学与工程学院 
袁焕祥 北京工商大学轻工科学与工程学院 
梁海燕* 北京工商大学轻工科学与工程学院 100048
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中文摘要:
      化妆品中的天然功效原料含有丰富的活性成分,然而天然原料通常生物利用度不高、溶解度低、稳定性差,如高分子量会阻碍透皮吸收或者低水/油溶解度会使其难以掺入配方,需通过剂型创新技术提升其性能和应用范围。分子组装是一个涉及非共价相互作用的复杂过程,其中分子间的氢键、疏水作用、静电相互作用以及范德华力等非共价键合力驱动不同结构分子的有序自组装。将化妆品功效原料通过超分子组装、脂质体封装、纳米乳液包裹等分子组装技术修饰后,具有溶解度高、透皮吸收好、生物利用率高等优点,因此,分子组装技术有望解决化妆品功效原料利用率低、添加量少的缺点。目前对通过分子组装技术改性的化妆品功效原料进行系统介绍和进展总结的较少,基于此,本文综述了超分子组装、脂质体封装和纳米乳液包裹的分子组装技术在化妆品原料改性中的优势和研究进展,以期对制备不同功效的化妆品提供一些参考。
英文摘要:
      Natural functional ingredients in cosmetics contain a wealth of active components, however, these materials often suffer from low bioavailability, poor solubility, and instability. For instance, high molecular weight can hinder transdermal absorption, or low water/oil solubility can complicate their incorporation into formulations. Consequently, innovative formulation technologies are essential to enhance their performance and broaden their application range. Molecular assembly is a complex process involving non-covalent interactions. Intermolecular hydrogen bonding, hydrophobic interactions, electrostatic interactions, and van der Waals forces drive the orderly self-assembly of various structural molecules. By modifying cosmetic functional ingredients through molecular assembly techniques such as supramolecular assembly, liposome encapsulation, and nanoemulsion wrapping, these ingredients can achieve benefits such as enhanced solubility, improved transdermal absorption, and increased bioavailability. Thus, molecular assembly technology offers promising solutions for the low utilization and limited incorporation of functional ingredients in cosmetics. Currently, there is a lack of systematic introductions and summaries of advancements regarding the modification of cosmetic functional ingredients using these techniques. In light of this, this paper reviews the advantages and research progress of molecular assembly technologies, including supramolecular assembly, liposome encapsulation, and nanoemulsion wrapping, in the modification of cosmetic ingredients, aiming to provide references for the development of multifunctional cosmetics.
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